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When compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee renowned high-end venues. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” says a family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary honour.